Garbage disposal problems

Turn the disposal's wall switch off. Find the small red reset button on the bottom of the unit under the sink, and press it until it clicks. Run cold water and turn the switch back on. If the button pops out again or nothing happens, the usual causes are a jammed flywheel, a motor that's overheating, or a failed switch or wiring.

If there's no sound at all, the usual causes are a tripped reset button, a failed wall switch, or the motor itself. If it hums but doesn't spin, the flywheel is jammed or the motor's bearings have seized.

First press the red reset button on the bottom of the unit. If it still won't turn on, the usual causes are a failed wall switch, a loose wire in the disposal's electrical box, or a motor that has burned out.

A hum means power is reaching the motor but the plates can't turn. With the power off, a 1/4-inch hex key in the socket on the bottom of the unit lets you work the flywheel free. If it's stuck solid or hums again right away, the usual causes are seized motor bearings or a broken flywheel.

Turn the power off at the switch, and never put a hand inside. Turn the hex socket on the bottom with a 1/4-inch hex key until the plates move freely, then press the reset button. If it jams again and again, the usual causes are worn or damaged grinding plates, a bent impeller arm, or worn motor bearings.

If the sink drains slowly with the disposal running fine, the clog is usually in the drain trap or the discharge pipe, not the disposal. If the disposal itself is slow to grind, the usual causes are worn grinding plates or a motor that has lost power.

A leak from the bottom of the unit usually means the internal seals have failed and water is getting into the motor housing. A disposal leaking from the bottom generally needs to be replaced, not repaired.

Where it leaks tells you the cause. From the top, it's usually the sink flange seal. From the side, it's the dishwasher hose connection or the discharge pipe gasket. From the bottom, the unit's internal seals have failed.

Food trapped under the splash guard and on the grinding plates is the usual source. If the smell is more like sewer gas, the usual causes are a dry or damaged drain trap or a loose discharge pipe connection.

If the button won't stay in, the motor is still too hot: wait 10 to 15 minutes. If it stays in but nothing runs, the usual causes are a failed wall switch, loose wiring, or a burned-out motor.

It depends on the unit and the plumbing under your sink, so we don't show prices online. Your technician gives you a price after seeing it. The diagnostic fee is waived when you go ahead with the repair.

Most last around 8 to 15 years, depending on use. Once one leaks from the body or the motor keeps overheating, replacing it usually makes more sense than repairing it.

With the power off, scrub under the rubber splash guard with a brush. Then run cold water and grind a handful of ice cubes with a little salt to scrub the plates, and finish with a few citrus peels. If it still smells or grinds slowly afterwards, the usual causes are worn grinding plates or a drain trap holding old water.

Turn the power off first. If the disposal hums, free the flywheel with a 1/4-inch hex key from below and press the reset button. If it spins but the sink still holds water, the clog is usually in the drain trap or the discharge pipe, or in the drain line beyond the wall.

Yes, almost all do: a small red button on the bottom of the unit under the sink. It pops out when the motor overheats or jams. Wait a few minutes for the motor to cool, then press it until it clicks.

If yours has no reset button, switch off its breaker for a minute, then back on. If it still won't run, the usual causes are a failed wall switch, an internal thermal protector that hasn't reset, or a burned-out motor.

A leak at the top, where the disposal meets the sink, is usually the sink flange: its plumber's putty or gasket has failed, or the mounting ring has come loose.

It involves the sink flange, the drain and dishwasher connections, and the electrical wiring, all under the sink. If anything leaks or the wiring isn't right afterwards, it causes more damage than the old unit. A technician can tell you after seeing it whether a repair or a replacement makes more sense.

Match what you hear and see:

• Silent: reset button, wall switch or motor.
• Humming: jammed flywheel or seized bearings.
• Leaking: sink flange, hose connections or internal seals.
• Smelly: trapped food or the drain trap.

RepairNow connects you with vetted, independent technicians in Austin, Round Rock, Georgetown, Cedar Park, Leander, Lakeway, Bee Cave and Dripping Springs. Start with a free online diagnosis, then book: before 2 pm for same-day service; after 2 pm, we'll get someone to you within 24 hours.