Dryer problems

On an electric dryer, the usual causes are a failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or a failed cycling or high-limit thermostat. On a gas dryer, it's usually the igniter, the gas valve coils, or the flame sensor.

If it heats but clothes stay damp, the usual causes are a vent clogged with lint or crushed behind the dryer, a heating element that's only partly working, or dirty or failed moisture sensor bars that end the cycle too early.

On electric Samsung dryers, the usual causes are a failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or a failed thermistor. On gas models, it's usually the igniter or the gas valve coils. A blocked vent often blows the thermal fuse in the first place.

The usual causes are a blown thermal fuse, a failed heating element, or a high-limit thermostat on electric models; on gas models, the igniter or the gas valve coils.

A squeak or squeal usually comes from worn drum rollers, a worn idler pulley, or worn drum glides or a rear drum bearing.

Water inside the drum is usually condensation from the vent: a long or sagging vent duct, a vent that runs through a cold space, or an outside vent flap that's stuck open and lets rain in.

A dryer that stops mid-cycle is usually overheating and shutting itself off. The usual causes are a lint-blocked vent, a motor overheating on worn bearings, or a failing thermistor or door switch.

Stop using it until it's checked. The usual causes are lint built up around the heater or inside the cabinet, a heating element touching the housing, or a drive belt or motor overheating.

If the display lights up but the drum won't turn, the usual causes are a failed door switch, a blown thermal fuse (on many dryers it stops the motor too), or a failed start switch or motor. If nothing lights up, check the breaker first.

If the motor hums or runs but the drum doesn't turn, the usual causes are a broken drive belt, a failed idler pulley, or the drive motor.

The usual causes are a heating element shorting to the housing, a burned terminal block or power cord, or a failing motor.

Thumping or rumbling usually comes from worn drum rollers or a worn idler pulley. Rattling or a loud whir is often the blower wheel or something caught in it.

Most dryers have no reset button. Unplug it (or switch off its breaker) for a minute, then plug it back in. If it stopped from overheating, the thermal fuse is a one-time part: once it blows, it has to be replaced, and the blocked vent behind it needs clearing.

The usual causes are a blocked vent making the dryer overheat (often with an hC code), a failed thermistor, or a door switch that loses contact.

Usually yes: heating elements, thermal fuses, belts, rollers and igniters are common repairs. Replacing makes more sense when the drum or motor has failed on an older dryer. Your diagnostic report shows which it is.

It depends on the part, so we don't show prices online. Your technician gives you a price after seeing the dryer. The diagnostic fee is waived when you go ahead with the repair.

If it heats but clothes stay damp, the usual causes are a lint-clogged vent, dirty or failed moisture sensor bars that end the cycle early, or a heating element that's only partly working.

A musty or mildew smell usually comes from lint and moisture trapped in the vent duct, or from damp clothes left too long in a dryer that's not drying fully. A burning smell is different: see "Why does my dryer smell burnt?".

Start with what it does:

• No heat: heating element, thermal fuse or igniter.
• Not drying: vent or moisture sensor.
• No spin: belt or pulley.
• Noise: rollers or pulley.
• Stops mid-cycle: overheating from a blocked vent.

RepairNow connects you with vetted, independent technicians in Austin, Round Rock, Georgetown, Cedar Park, Leander, Lakeway, Bee Cave and Dripping Springs. Start with a free online diagnosis, then book: before 2 pm for same-day service; after 2 pm, we'll get someone to you within 24 hours.