Washer error codes

OE means the washer couldn't drain the water in time. The usual causes are a clogged drain pump filter (behind the small door at the bottom front), a kinked or blocked drain hose, or a drain pump that has failed.

UE means the load is unbalanced, so the washer slows or stops the spin to protect itself. If it happens with normal, mixed loads, the usual causes are worn shock absorbers or suspension springs, a washer that isn't level, or a failing motor rotor position sensor.

LE means the motor is locked or overloaded and can't turn the drum. The usual causes are something caught between the drum and the tub, a failed rotor position sensor on the motor, or a damaged motor stator or its wiring.

IE means water isn't coming in fast enough. With the taps fully open, the usual causes are clogged inlet screens where the hoses connect, a failed water inlet valve, or a kinked supply hose.

CL isn't a fault: Child Lock is on, so the buttons don't respond. Press and hold the Child Lock button (marked with a lock symbol; on many models it shares a button with another option) for about 3 seconds to turn it off.

dE codes mean the door didn't lock. If the door is fully closed and nothing is caught in it, the usual causes are a failed door lock assembly, a bent or broken door hook, or a wiring fault between the lock and the control board.

FE means the washer is overfilling. The usual causes are a water inlet valve that won't close, a failed water level (pressure) sensor, or the control board.

PE means the water level sensor isn't giving a sensible reading. The usual causes are a failed pressure sensor, a blocked or kinked sensor hose, or a wiring fault.

Sud means too many suds, usually from regular (non-HE) detergent or too much of it. If it keeps coming back with the right detergent, a clogged drain pump filter or a slow drain pump can leave suds behind.

PF means the power was interrupted during the cycle. If it comes back without a power cut, the usual causes are a loose plug or worn outlet, a failing power cord, or the control board.

tE means a water temperature error: the washer can't read or reach the right water temperature. The usual causes are a failed temperature sensor (thermistor), a failed heater on models that heat water, or the wiring.

4C (4E or nF on some models) means the washer isn't getting enough water. With the taps open, the usual causes are clogged inlet screens, a failed water inlet valve, or hoses connected to the wrong taps. A drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe can also siphon water out as it fills.

dC means the door or lid wasn't detected as locked for the spin. On some top-load models, it also shows when the load is badly unbalanced. The usual causes are a failed door lock assembly, laundry caught in the door, or worn suspension rods or shock absorbers.

5C (5E or nd on some models) means the water didn't drain in time. The usual causes are a clogged drain pump filter, a kinked drain hose, or a drain pump that has failed.

LC (LE on some models) means a water level or leak problem: the washer senses water where it shouldn't, or the level doesn't change as expected. The usual causes are a failed water level sensor, a clogged drain pump filter, or heavy suds from regular detergent.

1E (1C on some models) means the water level sensor isn't reading properly. The usual causes are the sensor itself, its hose, or the wiring to the control board.

UE (Ub or Ur on some models) means the load is unbalanced, so the washer stops or slows the spin. If it happens with normal, mixed loads, the usual causes are worn suspension rods (top-loaders), worn shock absorbers (front-loaders), or a washer that isn't level.

Sud (5d on some models) means too many suds, usually from regular detergent or too much of it. If it keeps happening with HE detergent, a slow drain pump or a clogged drain pump filter can leave suds behind.

LF means long fill: the washer is taking too long to fill. On Whirlpool washers the same problem shows as F8E1, or F20 on older front-loaders. With the taps fully open, the usual causes are clogged inlet screens, a failed water inlet valve, or kinked hoses.

Sd or Sud means too many suds were detected, usually from regular detergent, too much detergent, or thick "no-splash" bleach. If it keeps happening with HE detergent, a slow drain pump or a clogged drain pump filter can be the cause.

F5 codes mean the lid or door didn't lock. If nothing is caught in it, the usual causes are a failed lid lock or door lock assembly, a broken lid switch, or a wiring fault to the control board.

F9E1 means long drain: the water took too long to drain. (F21 on older Whirlpool front-loaders.) The usual causes are a clogged drain pump filter, a drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe or kinked, or a drain pump that has failed.